The Purnah Salary Fund 03/04/2007 - Total to date £575

There is little I can add to what Jill has written about our experiences in Nepal, except to say that I miss Nepal and I miss my family and friends there. And yes, I too have made a commitment to Nepal and its people and I will be going back.

You may remember that Jill has mentioned Purnah, one of the teachers at her school, in some of her blogs, and there's a photo of him somewhere too. His funding runs out at the end of this year, and we would really like to be able to fund him for as long as possible as he is a really good teacher, very conscientious, and very concerned both about the welfare of the children and that of the community. He wants to start Adult literacy classes in Nagarkot, which he won't be able to do if he has to leave Nagarkot and find work elsewhere - possibly abroad.

The pay of a teacher in Nepal is around £50 a month for a teacher in a government school, and as Purnah is still training he gets the equivalent of £25. So that's only £300 a year. He has two more years of training still to do, and then he will become a permanent teacher, at which point the government will pay for him.

So we've started a fund for Purnah's salary. And on this page, which will be updated as and when, we're going to give a running total and list the people who have donated to it. So if you'd like to contribute, please contact either Jill or myself - any contributions would be most welcome.

List of donors to the fund - with grateful thanks

• Rob Hepworth
• Keith Noble
• Dick and Gill Moore
• Sophie Moore
• Edward and Laura - Dick and Gills' niece and nephew
• Gary Fox
• Debi Fleming
• Denise Varley
• Lucie Barlow
• Nicola Roddy
• Mrs Abrams
• Patrick Hogan
• Greg Freeman
• Sue and Graham Bagshaw
• Celena Bretton
• Sarah Jane Smalley
• Gavin Hubbard
• Chris Bell
• The Organisation Development Team at Ufi learndirect

Vivienne x

How we kept in touch with you x

Internet cafes we have known. This is Viv at Tibet House which we visited nearly every day. It is run by Thupyen and Nima Sherpa who also run the Sherpa Cottage and incidentally make the greatest herb tea. Next is a picture of the internet cafe in a village called Sankhu which we walked to one weekend wading through a river to do so.



And this is the view out of the window at the Namaste internet cafe in Bhaktapur. Amazing isnt it?

xx

Semanta and Bhakta overlooking the Kathmandu Valley one day in October xx

Farewell to Miss Jill x

This is one of the images I shall carry with me. I took this photograph during an ordinary lesson. This is the view from my classroom doorway. My lessons attracted a lot of attention within the school. And through the window I could see the grandparents and passing goatherds and whoever else on the grassy knoll.


And this is part of my own leave taking. The children gave me all these flower bouquets and malas plus an assortment of heartfelt gifts which have all come home with me. This is a special meeting of the parents. It was always a difficult thing to arrange because they are all subsistance farmers and time is not easy for them to find. However they came together to meet the Headteacher one day and hear of his plans for the next year. You can see that some of them are holding a leaflet.. but the truth is that they cannot read. It is a situation that Purna and Uttav are tackling. Adult literacy groups will meet during the winter and the monsoon i.e. when time is easier to find. The hope is that they will be able to write at least their own names when I see them again next year.

Goodbye to Miss Vivienne x

Viv's send-off from Shree Krishna school. All these rather serious looking people are... far left the College Principal. Next to Viv is the school headteacher and next to him is Mahendra the English teacher. You will have to ask Viv who the other guy is and, of course, that is Semanta in the front. Viv has just been presented with a letter of appreciation from the school governing body. The heroes whose photos are on the wall are
Nepali literary figures.
These students are the reason we came. Here is Viv saying farewell to her year 12 students. They have all promised to write. This day was the first time I met them and they seemed a lively group of eager students. !!

Farewell from the Cottage xx

These are the people who run the Cottage in Nagarkot. Sem is the manager and the oldest person there. The smallest guy is Krishna the chef. Behind him is Buddha the gardener and also a near neighbour. The young man with the baseball cap is the bar manager, Narayan. Next to Sem is Aakash and at the left of the picture is Manoj. The cake we organised for the party says on it thank ytou very much in sanskrit script (or so Bhakta and Kiran told us).

So that was it. We did what we set out to do. Our work in Nepal has, as the cliche goes, given us more than we have left behind. Our presence has given rise to the contact and concern of others in Nepal towards our schools. During the last week we have been working to try and save the job of the only teacher worth his position at Shree Gadgade and we may just have done that.

We have become completely at home in Nagarkot and Kathmandu. I believe I may know more people there than in Whitley Bay at the moment. The relationships we made have been sustaining and important. We are returning to Nepal as soon as circumstances allow to do more of the same. I might even work out how to do some sketchpad work unaccompanied, tho somehow I doubt it.

As soon as I can I shall be adding photos to past blog entries and some more of our leaving party at the cottage. I certainly have culture shock right now. It is so wierd to be again in a country without poverty and hunger and the least said about the purple tinsel 'tree' in my neighbours window the better.

Aakash, one of the Nagarkot Cottage family is to be married this week and we would love to have been able to go too. (He did invite us. This is not just some idea I have had) And it is impossible to avoid checking the time difference and wondering if the fire is lit yet and how they are looking after it without Viv.

There is only one way to end this section and that is to say that we have both made a commitment to the project that means we shall return to Nepal to see it through.
Photos to follow,
love Jill x

A blog from me - for a change

Hi all,

Bet you thought I'd gone permanently missing, but I haven't - I've just been otherwise engaged. Anyway, Jill has kept you up to date with everything superbly, so you haven't missed anything on the school front at least.

So what have I been doing? Well, I've been on a trip round the country with Bhakta. We had a Land Rover to travel in (18 years old and still going strong) as one of the places we visited isn't on the tourist route any more, and no-one was quite sure how good (or bad) the roads were going to be.

Our first destination was Pokhara, where we viewed the Annapurnas and walked a short way up part of a hill to a viewing point at Sarangkot, which gave a good view of the bits of the Annapurnas which weren't hidden by clouds.

Next we went to Tansen, which also had good views of the Annapurnas. The scenery on the drive there was stunning - there are times when you wish you could walk the whole route with a movie camera and just show everything, but even then I doubt if you'd be able to capture the feel of the places you pass. Tansen was very un-touristy - as far as I could see we only met about 4 or 5 Westerners in the couple of days we were there. We had intended to go to the Rana Mahal, which was built in the 1920's as a memorial to (I think) a Prime Minister's wife - pretty much like the Taj Mahal really. It's deserted and dilapidated now, but from the photographs it must have been quite impressive in its heyday. Anyway, we didn't get there as it would have been a very long walk, so we went to Ridi Bazaar instead.


Ridi Bazaar is described as being the Varanasi of Nepal. For those of you who've been to Varanasi you'll remember it as being a crowded, noisy, bustling place where practically the whole of life goes on down by the Ganges. Ridi Bazaar is nothing like that; when we were there it was really quiet apart from a wedding and a few picnickers. But it was a nice place, and the drive there was again stunning, even if the narrow, windy roads did have Bhakta praying more times than usual, and even if the tarmac was actually missing in a few places. We then went into Tansen. Tansen is nice, but at this time of year it does get very cold at night. We had dinner in the hotel restaurant in the evening with a heater by our table, and the room was really cold and got quite damp too - and it's the best hotel there is there. But the staff were very good and really friendly.

Next we went to Chitwan Jungle Lodge. I had three elephant rides, a canoe ride, a nature walk and a jeep safari. I saw 2 rhinos, but to save me the trouble of photographing them and getting yet more blurred pictures of rhinos, they ran off before we got near. I also saw spotted deer, samba deer, three crocodiles, a stork, and lots of wild boar. We also did an alternative jungle walk, which consisted of me, Bhakta and Hakash (one of the guides) playing Scrabble in the viewing tower whilst the other guide took photographs of a langur monkey for me. Bhakta won the scrabble every time we played I'm ashamed to say, but then he is very competitive and always maximises the points he can get (we also played Connect 4 a lot and he won most of those games too).

One of the highlights at Chitwan was seeing the new baby elephant. It was only about 3 weeks old when we were there, and really cute, so once again I have lots of photographs of elephants. I also got invited to dinner with the staff instead of having dinner in the guests' dining room. We had dhal baat (of course), and I learned how to eat it in the traditional Nepali manner - using my right hand to mix everything up and then scooping it into my mouth from my hand by using my thumb. I'm not sure the food does taste any different from using a fork (which is what I was told), but it's a fun way to eat, and not quite as messy as it sounds.

So then it was back to Kathmandu, and we have a pretty full programme until we fly back on Friday. Bhakta is taking us out to dinner tonight, then tomorrow we're having lunch and a send-off at Natraj, then we have to be at Jill's school (I think) around 4 for something or other. Then I have to be at my school next morning, then we're having a party at night, then the next day we're coming back to Kathmandu for our last hot shower in Nepal before flying home. Do I want to go home? Yes and No. I'm looking forward to seeing my friends and family again, and to central heating and constant hot showers (the extremes of temperature here - 25C during the day and then 5C at night - are a little hard to handle without these, at least for a soft Westerner like me), and to having my own transport to get around. But I don't think there's anything else that I miss even after three months. And I will miss the people I know here, the friendliness of the Nepalese people, and waking up in the morning and seeing the Himalayas. But you can't have everything, so Ke Garne? (what to do?) as they say.

Well, that's all for now. There may be another post before we leave, but if not, there will more than likely be one or two when we get back.

Until then, take care of yourselves, and I'll see some of you soon.

Vivienne x

It must be true....tthe BBC said so.

For those of you who know this man (Sarah, Helen, Denise and Brian, Sue + Stu, Gilly + Dave) his picture today will come as something of a surprise. Yes he has lost his hippy hair. The magic ponytail!
This is Samanta Sunder Pokhrel and our main contact and friend here. He has been the architect of most of what we have done here. He made the initial contacts with schools he chose (well) to suit each of us. He went on to support our placements in every way. A real star.

He was an aging hippy. He told his wife and his mother, both of whom hated his hippy days, that he would have his hair cut when peace came to Nepal. And this week the United Nations returned here in greater numbers. They endorsed and co-signed the Comprehensive Peace Agreement in Kathmandu a week ago.

Their involvement has been a confidence boost to Nepalis. The Peace does not have to depend on the goodwill of the Maoist cadres, the army and the politicians or indeed the King. the B.B.C. say the United Nations will guarantee it. So it is so.

And the ponytail was sacrificed.

Love,
Jill x

P.S. I went into town today on the bus. I usually offer to have a child or someone's shopping or a bag of rice on my knee because I am a friendly and helpful person. Today I saw a goat being crushed by the push of passengers. There was no option. It sat on my knee. All the way trying to look out of the window and trampling around on me in the process. What I shall miss about Nepal xx

More to see x

And these are a couple of younger siblings who came to my sending off at school as they came to all my lessons too with an older sister. They were cute as buttons and never caused me or their sister any problems. I usually gave them some books to look at or some drawing to do during lessons. I shall miss them every bit as much as I shall miss their sister, Maya.
I did try to upload some of my other "sea-off" photos but not a single one is clear. No one here knows anything much about cameras, which is why we have so few pictures of ourselves. But Hey!! x

holiday snaps x

Thought you might like to see some pictures now that I have found a card reader. This is the centre of Patan, which plays Gateshead to Kathmandu's Newcastle. Doesnt look mush like Gateshead. This is where I was painting yesterday. It became, within seconds, a highly sociable event and attracted a huge audience. I only wish I could have warranted their attention. These people are sitting on the steps of a temple at early morning prayertime.

And this is another view of the same square with pigeons. Amazing isn't it? Another world.

Water

I have great news to report today.
Yesterday I went out to the village with Sem and Sikher (another director of Natraj) to introduce Natraj to Gadgade school.
Sikher was quite shocked by his visit. He couldn't believe just how little the children have and how great are the problems the teachers are dealing with. He promised to supply clean water... There... easy. The total cost is something like 80pounds (no poundsign on this qwerty). For a major problem solved. This should make a huge difference to the health of the children and also the staff.

His interest is worth a good deal too. Somketimes that is all they want here. To know that someone knows.,Love,
Jill x

Early morning in the city x

I had a brain wave about my art. Why don't I try the city squares before anyone gets up?
I am on my way back now from a few hours drawing. The early morning was so busy, but only locals. I walked through the market places before the days trading began. There was a strong and evocative smell of incense and the ringing of prayer bells. Everyone has to get to the temple to begin their day with prayer and that is what they wee doing today. Amazing sights and sounds. They were actually sweeping and cleaning the roadways and alleys before laying out their wares. The vegetable market was in full swing. mariglolds and spices and herbs and tika powder. There were evn people feeding the cows and calves in the street and also the pigeons and a goat with a bell round its neck. The stray dogs didn't seem to be being fed but one or two had malas on.

The only people ready for business when they saw me were the saddhus trying to charge me for photos. Since I didn't have my camera that was a nonstarter.

And the only people missing from this scene were the Japanese and Korean tourists and their distinctive face masks. Bizarre world.
Love from Kathmandu,
Jill x

Paint and giggling xx

Well Viv managed to avoid the Santa hat thing on her birthday yesterday. Hers was an altogether different day. For a start we are in Kathmandu this week. And secondly Bhakta took us both out for a special evening to a different sort of restaurant. He even organised a birthday cake for Viv and the traditional musicians sang 'Happy Birthday" which was definitely different.

The restaurant was a traditional Nepali place where one sits on the floor and is served with one dish after another all evening. All the traditional dishes of the main tribes of Nepal are included. Sounds like a banquet but it wasn't. These were only tastes. There were also traditional dances (dancers, not us) and some Kathmandu valley musicians. All rather lovely.

And this morning she left for Phokara in her weeks' exploration of some of the rest of this beautiful and extraordinary country.

I am taking the time to draw and paint in my favourite places around the valley. This is easier said than done. If one stands still at all here in Kathmandu one is assailed by hawkers and beggars and people trying to practice their English and act as unofficial guide. Endlessly saying "no thank you" doesn't work. Nor does getting het up. Nor does ignoring. I shall let you know if I find the answer.
Meanwhile my sketching is fun and a very sociable activity. For most of the neighbourhood.

Hoping to call in to Natraj tomorrow and meet up with Sem for a viewing of the website, which has caused us so much giggling to date....
Love and kisses,
jill x