P.S.

Now that I am adding pictures I am adding to previous posts too so, if you have nothing better to do, please take a look into the past..... And here is one of this mornings school assembly taken by Pampha and myself. She did the drill in Nepali and I did it in English. And look what a place it is to assemble. Himalayas in the background.! Somebody's grandfather attended too and kept order, not that these children ever need that.

Monday Thoughts.

This is the view of some of the students houses behind my classroom at Gadgade school. Every time I try to add pictures to this blog something goes wrong. Today I have the card and we seem to have both power and a line so here goes.

The young man is Purna Tamang. He is the newest and youngest teacher and the most enthusiastic. He is the only member of staff who can speak to the students in their own language. He feels strongly that these children in government schools are at a disadvantage and intends to be the best he can be to do something about it. Today he left a little early to go for an interview at the Education Offices in Bhaktapur. Together with the Head he is trying to get literacy levels lifted in the village. One of the students many disadvantages is uneducated parents. Purna and Uttav (the Head) are starting basic skills lessons and expect that the main attenders may well be the grandparents. Parents are always (especially mothers) way too busy from sunup to sunset to give this the attendance they might care to, but grandparents would like to be able to work alongside the children.

There was drumming at our neigbour's house all night. This means that someone is ill. It turns out to be Viv's student friend, Suntali. It sounds like she may have flu. This morning a group of young women called to perform some service with incense and the Shaman was doing something with a kid (goat). If all that fails she may consult a doctor.

Tika, brothers and the rice harvest

Among the special days during Tihar is a day for honouring brothers. We went to this festival at the invitation of Dr. Upritti (director of Natraj and something to do with the UN in Afghanistan). Viv, an Australian woman called Shannon and I watched the good Doctor receive the blessings of his sisters and then, with a little direction we three performed the same rituals. We had to create a safe circle with oil, water and marigold petals and then give him the Tika. A circle of white paste on the forehead has to contain all the colours of life. There are seven. And we gave him the mala too (the necklace of mariglods). Then he returned the compliment and we exchanged gifts. Now we are all adopted sisters of Dr. Upritti and of each other. This could be useful. You never know.

When we got back to the Cottage there was a school trip there from the UK. What a shock to hear so many English voices and young ones at that. They were invited to Bhai Tika (brothers day) at the neighbouring houses. They were surprised at the ritual but seemed to know to take it seriously and participate with thought.

They have left now for a rafting trip and then a hike. And so to school. Except that no one told me my school was to be closed today for the rice harvest (maybe no one knew). I taught the students who did show up today and I had a long conversation with the Head. He told me some of his frustrations with the system and his hopes that I am only the first volunteer from the UK (come on people. Lets not disappoint!!) It has been a really useful experience for him and for the school. These government schools are not the most prized in the system or the most supported. Its a delight to be able to make some differences however small.

I have forgotten to bring my photocard so pictures will have to wait til tomorrow.
Namaste,
Jill xx

Embarrassed dogs, Diwali, a first for me and school

Happy Diwali to everyone!

Well, here it's the Tihar festival, also known as Diwali and Deepawali. This festival lasts for several days, and each day is associated with some activity or another. Friday was the day on which dogs are decorated with garlands of Marigolds, have tika placed on their foreheads (if they can stay still for long enough) and are fed well and are generally a lot better treated than they are the rest of the year. So you do get a lot of embarrassed looking dogs wandering around. One I saw had obviously been far too traumatised by the whole process and consequently had managed to get its Marigold garland tangled round its nether regions instead, which I would imagine would be far more embarrassing to any self-respecting canine than having it around its neck.

Yesterday was Laxmi Puja day when signs are painted outside each shop and house and hotel and Marigold garlands and lights hung or placed outside to welcome the goddess Laxmi who will bring wealth for the coming year. We went into Thamel yesterday evening (the tourist part of Kathmandu) and spent ages wandering around. Another tradition is that children go to different houses and shops and sing and dance traditionally, and for this they receive money. So there were lots of children standing in shop doorways singing, lots of activity everywhere, and it was a fun evening altogether. Later on in the week it will be the day for brothers and sisters where sisters place Tika on their brothers' foreheads, and receive money and other gifts. We will be back in Nagarkot by then, but there will also be a group of students staying at the cottage so there will be some festivities arranged for them.

To get to the "first" part of this post, I have been on a motorbike for the first time ever in my life. We had to go across Kathmandu to buy some desserts for Diwali, so our friend Bhakta offered to take us to the best place in town. So off he and I went on his bike. It was absolutely great. The traffic in Kathmandu is crazy at the best of time, but the day before the start of Diwali was particularly busy and we had to weave in and out of the traffic. It was so nice being on the back of a bike and staring at the people in cars and motor buses just as much as they were staring at me. Do they have crash helmets? Yes, of course they do, but only the driver of the motorbike has one - everyone else on the bike (and it may well be more than one person) has to take their chance. It was fun anyway - one of those things I must do again some time.

Before I go any further I must just write a little about the driving system in Nepal. The rules seem to be as follows:

1) All traffic drives on the left hand side of the road, unless there's a perfectly good reason for not doing so (which is most of the time). So you might well find yourself facing something coming towards you in your lane, even though there's no obvious reason why - potholes in the road seem to be a good enough excuse though.
2) Traffic lights are mainly only found in Kathmandu. Red means stop of course, but unless there's a traffic policeman there, it doesn't automatically follow that everyone will. I have yet to work out what the flashing amber light means, but then I think most of the drivers are still working that one out too.
3) Roundabouts are generally for going the wrong way round - I think we have only been round one roundabout where we actually went the right way.
4) Pedestrian crossings give you a slightly better chance of not being run over than otherwise - but it is only slight as most of the time if you're driving you can't see them anyway, and in general people cross the road wherever they feel like it.
5) Modes of transport are there to get as much use as possible. Three people on a bike or motorbike is not unusual, I'm sure the Nepalis would be world firsts at getting as many people into a car as possible, and I think I've already mentioned the buses.

Now to go back a bit. School last week was fine - more grammar for the year 9s, but not so much for the year 12s as it's harvest time and the students have to help with the harvest. So I spent quite a bit of time talking to one of the students - Sokhul - who is of one of the lower castes and whose family don't have any land, therefore no harvest. He's a very bright lad, and his English is very good. The pity is that he won't be able to go on to do any further education as his family can't afford it. If he did, he would have to go to Kathmandu and live there, and so would have to pay for accommodation and food as well as for his studies and books etc. In fact, the only reason he has been able to stay on at school is because a) one of his brothers has encouraged him to do so and supports him in doing it and b) he has some sponsorship from a family in Holland. He also contributes to the family income by doing some private tutoring for about 8 younger children. It seems such a waste that someone who is obviously bright and enthusiastic about education can't pursue their dream because of lack of money and also, because he's lower caste, because he doesn't have any contacts who could help him. Anyway, I've had a chat to Semanta at Nagarkot Cottage, and he's going to invite him for lunch one Saturday and talk to him. Something may come of it - you never know. I do hope so.

Well, that's my contribution to blogging for now. I did actually write something yesterday, but then couldn't post it. Ke Garni? (as they say in Nepal).

Take care of yourselves.

Love, Vivienne

During the course of a 40 minute art lesson this morning we had 5 visitors, not counting the 7 goats. Pictures included. Our guests did not leave until the students did. Even the old man came along too today. The artists are a delight. They will try anything new with enthusiasm but are still drawing what they know rather than what they can see. Today they even got as far as a little perspective. they asked if they could take the sketchpads home during Tihar so I shall let you know what happens.

The other photo is also from this morning. It is of my younger class who were looking at books in English today.

Tomorrow we are going into Kathmandu to meet a webdesigner at Natraj. Viv, (bless) has been designing a web in word so far and the time has come to summon the cavalry. Staying in town for a few days and coming back for the village's version of the festival of lights. Will let you know soon how that all goes,
love,
Jill x

The grassy knoll....

Outside my classroom window (I use the term window loosely. There is no glass in it) there is a sort of grassy bank. Some of the villagers gather there when I am teaching. There is one old man in particular. He follows me down to school and then back up to the village street again afterwards. He seems to prefer it if we dont overly acknowledge each other. He places himself on the knoll and hums along' keeping time when my class do "Wheels on the bus" (which, incidentally has some little known verses here about goats and chickens, though I couldnt think of a sound for sacks of rice....)

The other windows face into the central courtyard through which children seem to pass according to a system unknown to me. So I usually have an audience at those windows too. Ho Hum and wheels on the bus........

Love,
Jill x

P.S. A couple of pictures. Above left is just part of my walk to school. OK Eh? And on the right my hugely successful attempt at a fewminutes filler which has become a villagewide phenomenon... Colouring in.

" A man as big as a goat will talk as big as a basket."

Each class I teach has a few students in it who are not supposed to be there. In fact they are not students at all, but younger siblings in the care of older children. Without bringing them too some of our girls wouldn't be able to come to school at all. Usually they are no problem. At least not to me. I started giving these young ones some colouring and drawing to do and the excitement it generated was great. I don't think they have had the chance to do anything like this before.

I love my art class and I would say that it is going well. Again there is no tradition here of individual creative expression so they have never done anything like this before. Of course, it also means they have no history of failure so their willingness to have a go at whatever I offer is apparently boundless. Some of the results are surprising and fun.

Today was the social audit of the school which seemed to mean a long meeting with many speeches in Nepali which many of the villagers speak and understand only with difficulty. All in all their enthusiasm for the school is commendable given that when one is a subsistance farmer any time off is difficult to take.

Viv and I went to Kathmandu at the weekend to meet with the managers of Natraj and show them our ideas about future advertising, as we had been asked to do. It was a really interesting few hours and we came away with an invitation to Laxmipuja next Saturday at the start of Tihar. Laxmi is the Goddess of light and also wealth. The more light one can welcome into one's home the more blessings Laxmi is likely to bestow. This sounds like a great opportunity to see and hear some of the loveliest candle lit singing and traditional dancing too. We can hear the village people practicing already for this. Sounds of singing in the evenings..!!

Every Buffalo deserves a wash. The buffalo in the byre below our window gets a thorough wash every morning around first light. It seems to like it. And the children are often called to the tap next. I think they have come to accept the cold wash treatment and rarely complain. Next the women have to go searching for fodder for the animals. The first meal follows for the family. And all this before school.

I am going to try and attatch some pictures so watch this space,
Love,
jill x

"Happy Birthday to Jill" and other things

You'll all be happy to hear that Jill's birthday was celebrated in style yesterday - the traditional birthday cake, plus presents, a marigold garland, a tinsel garland, and a santa hat with plaits hanging from it (not all that traditional or seasonal, but still..). This is the way that birthdays are celebrated at Nagarkot Cottage, and a good time was had by all. We had photos of Jill taken, photos of the staff taken (with and without santa hat), and photos of us all taken, so it was a bit of a photo fest all in all.

The other thing we did yesterday was wander down to Bhaktapur after school, where I spent a frustrating hour on a computer which was really slow, and Jill went shopping crazy in a pottery shop. But I won't tell you what she bought in case it spoils a surprise for anyone. I, more modestly, bought a Ganesh incense holder.

Last day at school for a couple of days today. I spent this morning trying to teach the 'sh' sound to the year 9s and the year 12s. I think about tw0-thirds of the classes got the hang of it, but it was amazing to me (at least) that they then started pronouncing words beginning with just 's' with the 'sh' sound, so we did a lot of ship and sip practice and things like that until they could distinguish the difference. So, if you ever hear any Nepalis who say 'sh' instead of 's' it will probably be my fault....

Anyway, it's the weekend now for us both, and we're planning on going to Kathmandu. The week after next it will be Tihar (otherwise known as Divali), so we get three days off school. And I think that's all for now.

Love Vivienne x

Nandumaya Self-Sustaining Orphan Home

One of the things we did whilst we were in Kathmandu was visit the Nandumaya Self-Sustaining Orphan Home. This is an orphanage supported by our friend Bhakta, and Jill stayed there in April for a few days when she was last in Nepal.

There were two volunteers there when we went, which was good, as they have 21 orphans to look after. The children are mainly found by the police on the streets of Kathmandu and taken to the orphanage to be looked after. The home grows a lot of its own food, selling any surplus they have, and also selling mushrooms which they grow. They also keep hens and have a water buffalo which provides milk.

The place is fairly basic and not very big, but the children seem very happy and obviously care a lot about each other. They sang and danced for us whilst we were there, and we were made to feel very welcome. They are lovely children. Jill took some of the photographs she'd taken in April with her, which caused a lot of excitement.

Since then we have returned to Nagarkot, done a bit of walking and preparation for school, got very wet in a thunderstorm, and started work again after the holidays. This wasn't something we'd been particularly looking forward to, but now it's arrived it's OK. the buses haven't improved a great deal, though I didn't expect them to. This morning's bus was crammed full even before I got on it, and was even more crammed by the time I got off, and the bus coming back contained two goats who kept wandering up and down the aisle and shoving their heads in the crotches of the male passengers - curious phenomenon and one which wasn't particularly welcome.

More anon.

Love, Vivienne x

Home again, Home again, Trippity-trot.

O.K. so it was HOT. Very. And HUMID. Equally very. And surprisingly good to get back to Nagarkot again as if it were home or something.!!

We went to Lumbini Peace Park which is an amazingly good idea and, as far as it is finished, it is great. Each Buddhist country is given a plot of land to use as a Buddhist Temple and/or monastery according to their own national traditions. The Park is full of small ponds and gardens. Somehow the whole thing works and will do more so when it is finished. I loved the Burmese Temple in gold and the Korean with its characteristic architectural outline. Photos encd.

The river was running too high for the jeeps when we were on our way to the Jungle Camp so the elephants were sent to meet us. (not on their own you understand). Our first experience was riding the elephant into water that came up to its ears. Thats deep.

Wild rhino do a smart trick with their molecules when Viv points a camera at them. (Credits for that concept to David with thanks). The result is fuzzy, black lines among fuzzy green which we KNOW is rhino but which doesnt much look like it.!!
The most important day of the Deshain Holiday is day 10 when family members turn to the oldest in the family for a special blessing. On that day we were quite close to Bhakta's family home. So he took us along while he went for the Tikka. His father gave us the blessing too which was an honour. The gifts are a date, some fresh fruit, some red thread (something to do with either tribe or caste) and some especially grown barley. Apparently this is the time of year when one's spirit needs to rise free of the earth. Every village, and many homes, provide a swing for the children and the young. We saw a few kites too doing much the same thing (rising above the earth). On the whole though Deshain is a festival of rethinking and paying homage to the ancestoral line, including and remembering those family members who have died. The next festival in a few weeks time is a much more light hearted affair of joy. So we are looking forward to that one now. Here it is called Tihar but it is also known as Divali.

So. Although it is Sunday here the schools went back this morning. Viv and I go back tomorrow upholding the British weekend as a national tradition we are quite fond of. So today we have done our lesson planning in a place where it is very difficult to keep one's focus from wandering. Our office has the most lovely view down the Kathmandu valley which looks just special at any time of day.
Somehow we have scrambled together some lessons and I am starting to do Art with one of my classes this week. Viv is still working on how to teach conversation lessons to a class of 80..

Love, And more to follow,
jill x